A New Pastoral

A quarterly home cooking journal by Ann and Glenn Suokko features recipes from their kitchen and seasonal images from their home in Vermont.



Every growing season has its share of bounty, and, at least in our kitchen, we tend to do as much as we can with what grows in abundance when it arrives and while it is fresh and available: strawberries in June, raspberries in July, blueberries in August, apples in September, pears in October. Admittedly, we love fruit. And on the heels of the last of the fruit-bearing season is winter squash, a plant that is often confused for a vegetable. But squash is not a vegetable. Squash, like avocados, tomatoes, cucumbers, and eggplants, are botanically-speaking, fruits. Perhaps that is why we love them so much. They are considered a fruit because their flesh contains seeds and they develop from the flower-producing part of a plant. Regardless of proper identification, squash—in all its many varieties—is a delicious ingredient.

In Vermont, when the cool weather begins to linger, and the fall harvest is well underway, winter varieties of squash make their way into our recipes for snacks or meals at breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Winter squash is one of those fruits that is versatile enough an ingredient in cooking to shift from something savory for dinner, to something sweet for dessert. In this issue, Ann has offered recipes that do just that, from skillet scones with sage, to cake with frosting. Some varieties of squash, such as buttercup, are excellent replacements for pumpkin (a type of squash), especially when used in baking pies. Among many varieties of winter squash that Ann cooks with, in the following recipes, the versatile Acorn, Buttercup, Butternut, Delicata, and Kabocha are often easily found at local markets. GS